Word of the day: sastrugi. Word of the day: sastrugi
Righto, gather round, you absolute hungry legends, because we need to have a serious chinwag about the most important sibling rivalry since Cain and Abel decided that farming was a mug's game. In the left corner: American Coney Island. In the right corner, literally about two metres to the right: Lafayette Coney Island. Two shops. One wall. A century of beef (and, well, beef hot dogs). Sit down, crack a cold one, and let's sort this out like grown adults who eat chilli at 3am.
The backstory, for those playing at home, is pure fair dinkum drama. Back in the day, Greek immigrant brothers Gust and William Keros landed in Detroit and both had the same brilliant idea: shove a snappy natural-casing hot dog on a steamed bun, smother it in a bean-free chilli of questionable but glorious origin, wack on mustard and diced onion, and call it a coney. One brother opened American in 1917. The other opened Lafayette just down the road. Blood is thicker than water, but apparently not thicker than chilli profits, mate.
So what's actually the difference, I hear you ask? Some say American's dogs are a touch snappier, the chilli slightly more traditional, the vibe a bit more "tourists and city workers". Lafayette has the grittier, no-nonsense old-school charm, the kind of joint where the menu has roughly four items and nobody's mucking about with kale. Truth be told, the difference is thinner than the onions on top. Locals will thump tables defending one over the other, and both camps are absolutely convinced they've picked the winner. It's like arguing whether Meat Pies are better at the footy or the servo — the honest answer is you'll demolish either, and you'll feel wrecked after, and you'll be back next week.
Now, here's a word to drop at your next barbie: sastrugi. Those razor-sharp little ridges carved into snow by howling winds — basically nature's way of saying "not today, mate". Detroit in January is peak sastrugi country, and crossing Michigan Avenue from Lafayette to American in a proper blizzard is an endurance event the Winter Olympics can only dream about. But do the locals care? Absolutely not. Detroiters will trudge over frozen terrain with icicles hanging off their eyebrows, all in the name of a chilli-smothered dog and bottomless coffee served by waiters who've seen things, mate. Things.
Here's my verdict, and it'll ruffle feathers: get both. There's no law against it, and the two shops being shoulder-to-shoulder is basically an invitation from the universe. Order at Lafayette, waddle next door, have one at American, then stand in the middle of the footpath like a philosophers' roundabout, comparing notes in the sleet. That's the real Detroit experience — not choosing a side, but refusing to choose at all while your breath turns to frost and your heart to chilli.
So next time you're in the Motor City, skip the fancy downtown nosh spots and get amongst the snout-on-a-bun action. Whether Team American or Team Lafayette wins your ticker, the real champion is your taste buds — and the loser is anyone who claims they can tell the difference after midnight. Good luck, legends. Mind the sastrugi.